Starchless sheet



Oct. 26, 193 7.

C. EMMEY STARCHLESS SHEET Filed Feb. 18. 1955 INVENTOR. (Zak/e5 Emm B6g) M ATTORNEY.

Patented Oct. 26, 1931 UNITED STATES PATENT orrlce 4 Claims.

This invention relates to the production of a starchless spontaneouspermanently self stiffening fabric or sheet material and moreparticularly to the use thereof in combination with articles of apparel.

While I describe my invention as particularly applied to collars eitherof the attached or detached type it will be understood that this is forthe purposes of illustration only and that my invention is not limitedthereto but applies to any other articles compatible with the disclosurethereof.

My invention contemplates the provision of an article of apparel whichmay be stiffened to any desired degree, without the use of starch orother extraneous stiffening means, and upon which ironing alwaysproduces the stiff shiny appearance of a laundered starched article andwhich repeated laundering will always spontaneously restore.

My invention further contemplates the provision of an article of apparelthat is impervious to water and which will not wilt or soften under theinfluence of perspiration and body heat.

My invention further contemplates the provision of such an article .ofapparel which is strong and durable and which may be produced at acomparatively lower cost than like articles heretofore produced.

My invention further contemplates the production of a fabric or sheetmaterial which is permanently thermoplastic and which upon repeatedironing, will spontaneously further produce on the article of apparelwith which it is associated, a slight waxy finish, ordinarily obtainedby beeswax or other extraneously applied waxy substance commonly used inlaundering, and which waxy finish will be produced without the use ofextraneous material.

It has heretofore been proposed to use various cementitious binders toprovide a stiffened article of apparel adapted to be laundered withoutstarching and which is water proof and unaffected by body heat. Thesematerials are not permanently thermoplastic, require extraneousmaterials to efiect thereon the waxy laundered finish common in thelaundry art and are usually produced from cellulose derivatives, whichare in most cases highly inflammable.

The present invention is concerned with the use of an impregnatingmaterial and cementitious binder comprising vinyl resins, resulting fromthe polymerization of vinyl compounds, and provides a permanentlythermoplastic cementitious binder which is noninflammable.

It has been proposed in the prior art to fabricate articles of apparelwith cellulose derivatives which are non-cementitious in themselves andto then chemically treat the entire fabricated article in order tothereby make the cellulose cemen- 5 titious. This method makes thearticle impermeable both to moisture and air and therefore isuncomfortable to wear in warm weather.

Another disadvantage resulting from such process is the difficultyencountered in properly laundering the article which due to itswaterproof properties will not permit the water to pass through the bodyof the collar.

I am likewise aware that it has been proposed in the prior art toproduce a lining comprising a woven fabric composed of yarns or threadsof cotton and additional yarns or threads of a cellulose derivative.

While such process has the advantages of producing a starchlessspontaneous stiffening article of apparel permeable to water and air, ithas the same disadvantage inherent to all such binders of requiringchemical treatment of the entire fabricated article to make the bindercementitious after the article has been fabricated, with the attendantnecessity of special machinery and special process of manufacture.

The present invention provides a self stiffening permanentlythermoplastic sheet or fabric which is permeable to air and water andwhich eliminates the necessity of chemical treatment of the fabricatedarticle as heretofore required, and which may be readily applied to anycommon lining material now used, as for example the cotton liningcommonly used in the manufacture of ordi- 5 nary collars and cufis.According to the present invention a permanently thermoplasticcementitious binder having compounded therein a slight quantity of anoily or waxy substance, is applied in the form of a plurality ofextremely thin streaks of film interlaced or parallel on the surface ofa sheet of material or fabric, preferably an unbleached woven sheethaving relatively large interstices and therefore readily absorbent,such as the lining material ordinarily used in the manufacture ofcollars and cuffs.

To carry out the present invention I prefer to use a permanentlythermoplastic cementitious 50 material formed from the solution of avinyl resin in any compatible solvent, such as acetone. To such asolution of proper proportions to provide a comparatively stiff mixture,I prefer to incorporate a plasticizing agent made up of butyl acetate,toluene and phthalates.

Vinyl resins are inherently permanently thermoplastic and do not requirethe use of plasticizers such as enumerated above to impart a plasticquality, but I have found that they are not completely suitable for thepurpose of providing a starchless spontaneous self stiffening binder forarticles of apparel, such as contemplated by the present invention,because they produce in such articles when handled, the stiff sensationexperienced in the handling of heavy paper or card board and evoketherein the crackling noise occasioned by the milling of paper sheets.

The addition of a plasticizer or softening material to the thermoplasticresin provides in the fabric with which my thermoplastic stiffeningbinder is associated, a smooth feeling and eliminates thedisadvantageous crackling noise usually associated with the cementitiousbinders heretofore used, and which to a certain extent adversely affectstheir commercial value.

In addition to the above mentioned ingredients I prefer to compound inmy thermoplastic binder an extremely small quantity of a waxy or oilysubstance, such as paraffin oil. Upon ironing the article of apparelwith which my starchless spon taneous self stiffening fabric isassociated, this waxy or oily substance will seep to a slight extentthrough the article to thereby produce therein the shiny starchedappearance, generally associated with laundered articles, resulting fromthe extraneous use thereon of beeswax or other commonly employed wax ortallow.

The following illustrative formula will serve as an example of a.thermoplastic binder which has been found suited for use in the presentinvention.

di-butyl phthalate. or other Percent Vinyl resin 29.0 Butyl acetate 5.4Toluene 7.1 Di-butylphthalate 4.5 Paraffin oil 3 Acetone 51.0

It will, of course, be understood that the proportions of theseingredients are illustrative only and that they may be varied and theingredients modified to include other thermoplastic stiffening agentsand other plasticizers or to eliminate entirely or in part theplasticizers suggested, and mxy or oily substances.

The proportions of these ingredients will vary in accordance with thelining material which is i to be impregnated with the thermoplasticmaterial and the degree of stiffness required for the article with whichmy impregnated sheet is associated.

The accompanying drawing illustrates an application of my invention asapplied to a collar. Figure 1 is a view of the collar laid fiat andunfolded, with a portion of the fabric broken away to show mythermoplastic impregnated sheet.

Figure 2 is a diagrammatic plan view of a piece of the thermoplasticlining, greatly magnified.

Figure 3 is a cross sectional view on the line 3-3 of Figure 2.

Figure 4 is an enlarged section showing the collar folded.

Figure 5 is a diagrammatic plan view of a piece of lining showing amodified application of thermoplastic thereto, greatly magnified.

In the practice of my invention a thermoplastic having a comparativelystiff consistency is applied .7 to a fabric sheet [0, preferably havinglarge interstices and comprising the usual lining material such as foundin the collar and cuff manufacturing art, in the form of a plurality ofextremely thin streaks ll of film, preferably by a plurality of rollers,which apparatus need not be shown in this application as it is not apart thereof and only so much of which is herein described as isnecessary to explain generally the method of applying such streaks ofthermoplastic film.

Two hollow metal rollers preferably perforated along the periphery topermit the viscous thermoplastic cementitious material to escapetherethrough upon the application of air pressure to the hollow rollers,may be used to impregnate the sheet II). This sheet is carried betweenthe rollers by any suitable means, which need not here be described, andas it passes therebetween, air is forced in to the rollers, therebyforcing the liquid thermoplastic cementitious material through theperforations in the roller and streaking the sheet with a plurality ofstreaks of film ll approximately .003 to .004 inch in thickness andwidth.

These streaks of film are separated by areas of unimpregnated sheetmaterial l2, thereby providing a plurality of air spaces between thethermoplastic. These areas of fabric, unencumbered by any thermoplasticmaterial, vary from approximately .0625 to .25 inch in width. The formwhich the said streaks of film assume may be varied by changing the typeof rollers used, for

' example these streaks may assume a wavy like formation I! or a weblike weave (Fig. 5), but will always be separated by air spaces slightlygreater than the width and thickness of the streaks of film. By applyingthe thermoplastic material in this fashion instead of the heretoforecomplete impregnation of the material with which it is associated, thecost of producing such sheet is greatly reduced and its resulting weightgreatly lessened, since a comparatively small quantity of thermoplasticis thereby used.

After the application of the cementitious material to the fabric, it maythen be passed over a plurality of rollers to permit the volatilesolvents to completely evaporate the thermoplastic drying thereon andadhering thereto. The resulting fabric is dry and non-sticky at ordinaryroom temperatures and is produced in an economical and cheap manner andwithout excess of thermoplastic cementitious material.

This resulting fabric may then be formed into rolls, preparatory toshipping and may then be associated with any article without furtherchemical treatment as heretofore required.

When applied to collars as illustrated in the accompanying drawing,these sheets may be fashioned into the desired shape of the collarlining inset [3 as has heretofore been the common practice in this art,by the usual cutting or stamping machines. It is apparent that the useof this resulting fabric produces no change in the method of manufactureof any article heretofore used with which my novel fabric is to beassociated and does not require the use of new machines or changes toexisting machines.

This starchless spontaneously self stiffening fabric lining is placedbetween the plies l4 and I 5 of the collar, in the usual manner nowfollowed in conjunction with the use of the ordinary unimpregnatedcollar lining, and is then sewed between the plies, in any suitablemanner, as by means of the stitching l6 well known in the art andwhichneed not be further described here.

The collar is then ready for pressing by any suitable means as a hotiron, a slight mist being applied to the finished collar immediatelyprior to this operation.

The heat, steam and pressure of the hot iron causes the thermoplasticll, adhering to the lining I0, and which is moldable, to fiow into theinterstices l2 and to slightly impregnate the collar plies l4 and I5 andthe lining fabric to thereby permanently cement the lining and pliestogether. The heat and pressure mold the plastic and therefore shape thecollar to the desired, pressed and laundered appearance.

Upon cooling, the finished collar becomes permanently stiff, the extentof which varies with the temperature of the pressing means which isapplied to article, the temperature for a semistiif material rangingfrom 220 F. to 250 F., a higher temperature producing greater rigidityin the article.

The'oily or waxy substance compounded in the thermoplastic material, isvolatilized by the heat and seeps slightly through the plies during theironing process to thereby produce on the article the shiny waxyappearance of a properly laundered-article.

The streaks of film of thermoplastic material are sufficiently spacedapart to always leave after the pressing operation, slight areas ofunimpregnated lining between the plies, to thereby provide air spacesand to produce a finished product that is permeable to water and air,but one which will not wilt or ruffle from prespiration, exposure towater, or body heat, but will remain permanently stiif.

I have found that the surface of the areas of fabric separating thestreaks of film and unencumbered by the thermoplastic cement may, ifdesired, be coated with a wax, by any means known in the art. Upon theapplication of heat and pressure as heretofore described, this waxysubstance is volatilized and bailed off and causing the thermoplastic toflow more freely and be more readily moldable.

The boiling off of thewax insures the formation of air spaces in thethereby cemented parts of the article and prevents the possibility, inthe event that the streaks of film are not properly spaced apart, of thestreaks of thermoplastic being molded together.

The article so produced may be thoroughly washed, the air spacespermitting the water to penetrate through the article and thoroughlycleanse it and to similarly permit air to pass therethrough, so that itwill not be uncomfortable for wear.

The thermoplastic is sufiiciently pliable at washing temperatures, 150F. to 225 F. to permit manipulation of the article to enable it to bethoroughly washed. I

After washing, the article may be ironed in the usual manner, wherebythe thermoplastic material is pressed and remolded to the desiredlaundered shape and a shiny waxy appearance reproduced thereon, and uponcooling, the article becomes rigid again. This process may be repeatedindefinitely, a durable strong article having been produced by my novelprocess and composition.

The composition of thermoplastic cement heretofore described may,itself, be produced in rolls of extremely thin sheets, which may be cutto any desired shape and placed between the plies of the collar or otherarticle as heretofore described, to thereby eliminate the impregnatedlining fabric. The collar is then sewed in the usual manner and pressedin the manner heretofore described.

The heat and pressure cause the thermoplastic sheet to flow andimpregnate the collars to permanently cement them together and provide amoldable stiffened article, provided with a waxy finish, as heretoforedescribed.

The cementitious binders, heretofore used to provide a stiffenedarticle, chemically react with the fabrics with which they areassociated espedially when heat is applied to the article to stiffen it,thereby affecting the color of the article and making it diflicult toproduce such articles in the desired colors and shades. This isespecially true ofthe cementitious binders which require chemicaltreatment of the entire fabricated article to make them cementitious andthermoplastic, a true fast color, particularly in different shadesthereof, being difficult to obtain.

My novel cementitious spontaneously uponlaundering self stiffeningbinder eliminates this very important disadvantage, as it is colorlessand no chemical reaction takes place either in the binder or with thefabric with which it is associated upon heating. If desired this bindermay itself be colored any shade with dyes or pigments.

It will be apparent self stiffening fabrics may be produced with myinvention and provided with any color, combinations of color or shadedesired.

It will be apparent that my invention does not, in any way, change themanner of manufacturing the articles with which it is associated, orrequire the use of any different machines now used in the art or anychange to such existing machines.

It will be apparent that my invention provides a novel articlespontaneously self stiffening liningtwhich may be produced atcomparatively low cos While the invention has been described in detailwith specific examples, such examples are illustrative and are not givenas limitations, since other modifications within the spirit and scope ofthe invention will be apparent to those skilled in the art. Hence theinvention is to be understood as limited only as indicated in theappended claims, in which the intent is to set forth all the noveltyover the prior art.

I claim:

1. A stiffening lining for association with a collar or similar articleof apparel, whereby said article of apparel is made premanentlyremoldable upon laundering, having an adhering thermoplastic filmcomprising a vinyl resin, a plasticizer and a paraffin oil, said vinylresin being.

flexibly rigid at ordinary atmospheric temperatures and moldable atironing temperatures, colorless and moisture proof.

2. A stiffening lining for association with a collar or similar articleof apparel, whereby said article of apparel is made permanentlyremoldable upon. laundering having an adhering thermoplastic filmcomprising a vinyl resin and a paraflin oil, said vinyl resin beingflexibly rigid at ordinary atmospheric temperatures and moldable atironing temperatures, colorless and moisture proof.

3. The process of cementing plies of a spontaneously self stiffeningupon ironing washable collar or similar article of apparel whichcomprises impregnating a sheet of fabric with a pluable at ironingtemperatures, colorless and moisture proof.

4. A remoldable upon laundering collar or similar article of apparel ofthe character described made of fabric plies fused together by a fabricsheet having a coating thereon consisting of vinyl resin and a paraflinoil contained therein, said vinyl resin being flexibly rigid at ordinaryatmospheric temperatures and moldable at ironing temperatures, colorlessand moisture proof.

CHAS. EMMEY.

